Unlike gasoline, which is much dryer, diesel fuel has more lubricity to it will usually wet the stack rather than pass the rings. An extreme cold crank condition with out firing would hydraulic lock, but I don't think batteries and starter would permit this to happen.
In cold weather put hot air into intake and it will fire up. I'm sure most of us have seen the ungodly smoke show from a diesel that has resisted firing up. How cold is c? Almost for sure it's a slight leak in a fuel line letting a bit of air in, but not enough to leak fuel noticeably. I have the exact problem with my brown pick-up right now.
I had the same in my Black K5, turned out one hose clamp was slightly loose. I double clamped every connection and the problem went away. For my brown pick-up the longer it sits, the harder it is to start. Let it sit 8 hours and it's only slightly miserable to start. Overnight, and it's a good bit worse It is less bad with a full tank of fuel. All are symptoms of a slight fuel supply line leak. I looked at it last night,and saw the fuel line at the filter housing that goes to the IP is waxy where the hose clamp is,but it isn't wet or a "fresh" leak Looks like I'll be re-vamping the fuel lines in my 82 K too,they are extremely crispy,I'm surprised that truck fires right up--by all rights those flaky steel lines should be porus..
I've used copper on gas engines with no trouble.. I think stainless would be ideal in your neck of the woods It would be ideal,but not in my budget--I figure the pickup wont outlast even new steel galvanized fuel lines,so why waste the cash on stainless tubing Never try to use ether starting fluid on a glow plug equipped engine either.
You need to take the air hose off the intake manifold. Take a rag and soak it in gasoline. Hold a the gas soaked rag tight just one layer, make believe you're using the rag for an air filter over the inlet opening. Crank the engine and it WILL start on the gasoline fumes, but it will only run for a few seconds. The thing is, during those few seconds you will have spun the engine over maybe a couple hundred times, helping to get the air out of the system.
Now for the disclaimer. I have NEVER seen a diesel pop back through the manifold into the rag, but the chance does conceivably exist and remember, you're holding in your hands a gasoline soaked rag.
You make your own decisions on the advisibility of this course of action, so you're on your own. If you can tell me what engine you've got, I can give you better bleeding instructions. That particular model is self-bleeding so you just have to crank it until it starts. The easiest way to fix it is simply to drag it in a heated shop and let it warm up, well above freezing. If not, you'll have to work the additive in it, and that can take a lot of time.
Good luck, next time keep some fuel in it. Finally got it started and limped it into the garage to warm up. Fuel is "gelled" up pretty bad right now. Cranked to beat heck on it until she started turning over and then modulated the throttle until she got going.
Trust me I've tried to no end! I'd imaging the air in the line would have caused the freezing and no fuel pressuse problem! Either that or some water was in the line and froze. I'm not out that long once it is outside during the winter months Its been in there since I limped it in after work lastnight and hooked it back up to the battery charger on low amps to recharge the battery.
Did some major "boosting" lastnight to get it to crank fast enough to start it. Will see what it does tonight after work after I've refilled the gas tank. Once started, I'm going to let it run for awhile to ensure it's idiling properly and bleed any additional air out of the lines.
Thanks again all, especially you jstricker! Put it in the tank per the directions. It doesn't hurt anything when it's warm either, in fact it helps the fuel to keep from developing the microbes that can cause filter plugging. Just get some and use it. When a petrol engine is turned off too soon after starting from cold, it floods with gasoline. The unburned fuel stays in the engine after it has been turned off.
This causes the spark plugs to become moist, preventing ignition and making it difficult to restart the car. When a small engine floods, what causes it to do so?
Flooding is most usually caused by improper starting, although it can also be caused by over-priming, a closed choke, a jammed valve, a gummed carburettor, or abruptly restarting an automated choke engine.
Removing the spark plug is the simplest technique to determine if your engine is inundated with gas. What happens to cars that have been flooded? Water can damage mechanical components, such as combustion systems and transmission lubrication, as well as electrical systems in the passenger compartment, such as airbag computers, which are often housed beneath the front seats.
Excess fuel spilt into the intake and cylinders when a carbureted engine failed to start on a chilly or damp morning years ago. The amount of wear that occurs there is worth many miles. Time may be the greatest cure for a flooded engine.
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